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First off, the day before yesterday was hard. Very, very hard. Not the longest distance covered, even though we clocked 76 miles, but certainly the longest day in-saddle at well over 8.5 hours. The ride was from Twin Bridges to Jackson, both in Montana in case you haven’t been keeping up. Twin Bridges was great, and the complimentary bike hostel spectacular (side note, it’s interesting what constitutes ‘spectacular’ after a few months on the road). However I didn’t sleep well, most likely due to being curled up in fetal position to fit into the two-person loveseat I called dibs on. In retrospect I should have unpacked, unrolled, and inflated the sleeping pad and bag. However, I was so excited to have a roof overhead and not need to set up the tent, that I couldn’t be bothered to unpack anything other than essentials.
There were three of us in the morning. My dad and me of course, and Colin who is the cool 28 y/o from the D.C. area mentioned a few days back. When we pedaled out around 8am the temps were still hovering around freezing. I was first to arrive in Dillon after a brisk 25 mile sprint. I stopped at Subway for half a foot long turkey sammy, free wifi, and a water bottle refill. Pops arrived next and chilled for a bit. Colin opted to take it easy and stay in Dillon for the night. After the brief pit stop I headed out after my dad to cover the next 50 miles, not knowing what would lie ahead.
I won’t bore you with too many details, but know the remainder of the day was hard. I’m not one to exaggerate, at least I don’t think, but it was one of the more challenging days I’ve ever pushed through. Definitely the hardest on this trip. We went up and over two mountain passes and had a 20+mph headwind the ENTIRE ride. I remember cresting the first pass, feeling excited I’d made it, only to feel gutted because I had to pedal just to make it down the other side. The wind was so strong that if I ceased pedaling I would come to a stop quickly. Disheartening to say the least. There were still highs though, the scenery unreal, and the endorphin rush unbeatable.
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I picked up the bike and noticed a couple dime-sized holes in both front and rear panniers. Also, holding tabs had broken off on both, meaning I needed a zip tie to keep them from bouncing off the racks. Semi-related side note, there was a crash involved sure, but seemingly every single time the bike tips over, something on the Ortlieb bags either rips or breaks. I’d say they are OK at best for adventure travel. The hardware needs to be redesigned with metal, not plastic. I’ve seen Axiom bags completely split open, now my experiences with Ortlieb (and I’m not alone). From my research, I’ll try Arkel bags next round. Shame Wolfman Expedition doesn’t make bicycle panniers, only motorcycle. I used those with no issue for one year from Denver to Argentina. 20k+ miles and countless crashes, once in Colombia sliding 40-50 yards at 40mph on asphalt after a low side on fresh oil. No issue with those, not a scratch.
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Yesterday morning we woke up to frost on our tents. It was just shy of 25 degrees F. Pretty sure the ‘F’ meaning F’ing cold. My fingers and toes were numb whilst breaking camp and packing up. Once we got riding however, the day was unbelievably good. The first 20 miles to Wisdom had a slight downhill grade, still wind, zero traffic, and beautiful scenery. Had a nice second breakfast, which has become my favorite meal of the day, and wonderful chat with the owner of the general mercantile in town. Wisdom has around 100 folks living year round, and isn’t growing or shrinking. Ranches there have been owned for five generations, and “ain’t nobody sellin”. That means the ultra-rich need look elsewhere for their turnkey ranch purchase. This keeps a nice, authentic feel to Wisdom. Perhaps something to the name?
Chapter two of the day provided yet another long, uphill pass. We ascended to over 7,500ft, but it wasn’t bad. The mountainous ranch and prairie land quickly turned into lodgepole pine forest, and before I knew it I was at summit. I was slightly ahead of my dad, and had planned to wait for him at the top for a celebratory PB&J. However, there were a few drops of rain, and I noticed I was racing a cloud down into Sula, so put in the earbuds and blasted down the hill.
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"It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs, who comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive to do the deeds; who knows great enthusiasms, the great devotions who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the bed knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly…" ~ Theodore Roosevelt
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So that’s it. 72hrs of adventure bicycle touring in a nutshell. There are ups, there are downs. One day I find myself both mentally and physically at wits end, the next in my own personal elation. Every single day I wake up to an entirely new adventure, and new chapter. I meet wonderful, inspiring, and kind people. It’s really no wonder why people talk about becoming addicted to adventure travel. Seemingly, life is never the same after tasting days like these.
~ David
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Ghost towns galore in Montana - Virginia and Nevada City |
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Wish I had the cash to buy a turnkey ranch like this! |
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Tater-shrivelin' cold water |
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Look mom, a herd of buffalo! Ok, sorry. |
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Fiyah! |